Jeans have become an everyday staple for the fashion conscious gent and over the last decade or so there has been a surge in popularity of selvedge denim. The demand for premium quality denim from ‘denim heads’ has meant more and more brands are now producing selvedge denim.
What is selvedge denim
Selvedge (or selvage, self-edge, salvage) refers to the self binding edge of the fabric that is woven on a shuttle loom. Before the 1950s, when denim was considered more of a workwear item than an everyday staple, this method of production was a lot more popular, but as time went on the production methods changed and cost cutting methods of manufacture were put in place. There are few factories in the world that still use shuttle looms, the majority of high end selvedge denim comes from Japan as this is where most of the shuttle looms remain, but with the rise in popularity there are companies in the U.S.A now also producing selvedge denim.
Selvedges are woven so that they will not fray, selvedge denim refers to using one continuous cross-yarm, the weft is passed back and forth through the warp. Selvedge denim can often be identified by the red/orange/rainbow edge running through the inside seam.
Selvedge is often associated with ‘Raw’ denim, whilst Raw and Selvedge are completely unrelated, a lot of selvedge denim is also cut from Raw denim. Raw simply refers to the fact that the denim has not been pre washed. Because it is not pre washed, Raw denim will leave ‘denim bleed’ on trainers/seats/fabrics it comes into contact with, it will also be a lot stiffer than pre washed denim. All denim, selvedge or non-selvedge, is raw when it comes out of the loom. Once it is washed, it is no longer raw.
We have selected 10 of the best men’s selvedge jeans available from 10 of top designer denim brands.
A.P.C. Petit Standard Slim-Fit Dry Selvedge
- Brand: A.P.C.
- Model: Petit Standard Slim-Fit Dry Selvedge
- Price: £135.00
- Our Say:
Founded in 1987, Parisian fashion label A.P.C. produce easy-to-wear, well designed, simple but quality wardrobe staples. The Petit Standard is our favourite jean model from A.P.C, stiff Japanese Raw Selvedge that ages perfectly. Petit Standards have a straight but fitted leg, creating a close silhouette without being skinny. The essential pair of everyday Raw Selvedge.
- Available at: MR PORTER
Levi's Vintage 501 1966 New Rinse Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Brand: Levi's Vintage
- Model: 501 1966 New Rinse Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Price: £215.00
- Our Say:
Levi's are the worlds biggest denim brand, so they certainly know their denim, offering 100's of different styles, washes and fits to choose from including some selvedge. From their vintage clothing collection we have chosen the classic 501 in Rinse wash, with a tapered fit and a wash that is perfect for summer.
- Available at: Stuarts London
Fabric-Brand & Co Jericho Slim-Fit Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Brand: Fabric-Brand & Co
- Model: Jericho Slim-Fit Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Price: £540.00
- Our Say:
Fabric-Brand & Co are an exclusive Japanese denim brand with decades or experience in premium denim production. Whilst certainly not the cheapest, the wash of the Jericho Selvedge denim relay caught our eye. Skilfully distressed to mimic everyday wear, with realistic whiskering and fading creating a beautiful deep dark wash.
- Available at: Mr Porter
Nudie Grim Tim Dry Black Selvage Jeans
- Brand: Nudie Jeans Co
- Model: Grim Tim Dry Black Selvage Jeans
- Price: £164.90
- Our Say:
Swedish label Nudie Jeans Co. are another of our favourite everyday denim brands, offering a popular range of jeans in all different fits from the Skinny Lin to the Loose Leif in every wash imaginable, they have now added Selvedge to their catalogue. The Grim Tim dry blacks make for the perfect pair of all black selvedge, 13.5oz comfort stretch denim cut in straight/tapered leg.
- Available at: The Idle Man
Jean Shop Mick Slim-Fit Japanese Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Brand: Jean Shop
- Model: Mick Slim-Fit Japanese Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Price: £165.00
- Our Say:
Jean Shop has been a well-kept secret for almost a decade, known to denim connoisseurs for their vintage-quality blue jeans and Japanese selvedge denim. Sewn in the US, superior workmanship runs throughout the men's collection. This hand finished pair of 'Mick' are given an artisanal fade treatment creating an authentically aged look, perfect for a more casual look.
- Available at: MR PORTER
Edwin Indigo ED-80 Slim-Tapered Denim Jeans
- Brand: EDWIN
- Model: Indigo ED-80 Slim-Tapered Denim Jeans
- Price: £160.00
- Our Say:
Edwin are another big name when it comes to Selvedge denim and the ED-80 feature signature rainbow selvedge - Cut to offer a slim fit with tapered leg. Crafted in Japan from premium 11oz CS Night Blue denim they are another great option for dark selvedge denim.
- Available at: OKI NI
RRL Slim-Fit Washed Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Brand: RRL
- Model: Slim-Fit Distressed Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Price: £345.00
- Our Say:
RRL or Double RL, named after Ralph Lauren's Colorado ranch, offer up a classic range of outwear with selvedge denim being a major part of it. It's hard to pick just one pair from the current collection, but we've gone with this beautifully distressed pair, the whiskering, fading and attention to detail make them well worth the price tag.
- Available at: MR PORTER
AG Jeans Nomad Slim-Fit Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Brand: AG Jeans
- Model: Nomad Slim-Fit Selvedge Denim Jeans
- Price: £235.00
- Our Say:
AG jeans offer up sophisticated, tailored jeans. The 'Nomad' is the lightest and most casual wash on offer, with a slight stretch to the fabric the are ideal for a more relaxed outfit.
- Available at: MR PORTER
Naked and Famous Weird Guy Grey Selvedge Denim
- Brand: Naked and Famous
- Model: Weird Guy Grey Selvedge Denim
- Price: £95.00
- Our Say:
Naked and Famous offer up Japanese Selvedge at a slightly lower price point than some of the previously mentioned brands, but they are still top quality jeans nonetheless. The weird guy has a regular tapered leg and this pair is finished in over dyed grey, hadnmade in Cananada from imported Japanese Selvedge.
- Available at: Stuarts London
orSlow 105 Standard Selvedge Denim Used Wash
- Brand: orSlow
- Model: 105 Standard Selvedge Denim Used Wash
- Price: £265.00
- Our Say:
orSlow have been around since 2005 and designer Ichiro Nakatsu has been creating desirable high quality workwear inspirsed garments ever since. The 105 Satndard are a exceptional pair of jeans, taking inspiration from an archive pair of from his collection, they are cut from an impressive white selvedge Japanese denim with a brushed, neppy finish they play host to a variety of signature details, from oxidised rivets to a vintage style waist patch.
- Available at: END
